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Anon
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Overheating!!!

Hi everyone

My Newly acquired CF1 'Trailblazer' has a bit of a problem with overheating.

I took it to my local garage and they replaced the thermostat, without effect. They then flushed the (non-leaking) rad (it has been standing unused for quite a while) and still no help. They did a chemical test and this indicated there was not a problem with the head gasket.

All the hoses seem to be getting hot and the heater is working, so it looks like the water pump is circulating - but the needle still goes into the red after only a few minutes driving. They even replaced the temp send unit in case it was giving a false reading - but still to no avail.

Any advice on what I should do next??? Kids are desperate to get out and about, but I daren't!

Many thanks

Aaron and Amelia

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Thu 17 May 2012 @ 22:21 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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The gauge will tend to go to the red after a cold start then should settle back to somewhere round mid scale after the thermostat opens.

If the gauge stays in the red then it may be telling lies if the coolant doesn't boil, possibly because the sender unit may be the incorrect one.

Check fan belt tension first: slack belt can lead to overheating.



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Fri 18 May 2012 @ 10:56 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Thanks Phil

I have replaced the temp send unit already but still no resolution. As it's just come back from the garage, I am assuming that the belts are tight.

What I haven't done is simply see if the gauge returns back after being in the red. How long is safe to leave it before damage could be done? Is it best to have the water off when I try this and have it parked up?

Someone else mentioned replacing the rad cap?

Is there a simple way of checking whether the water pump is faulty?

Really appreciate your help

Aaron
Fri 18 May 2012 @ 11:49 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Apologies Phil - meant to ask if I should have HEATER off rather than WATER.

Bloody fingers!

A
Fri 18 May 2012 @ 11:55 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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During normal driving the gauge should back off from the red after a few minutes.

Worst that can happen in that period if the gauge is in fact telling the truth is the coolant boiling - bumping noises in the system and, or, coolant being ejected via the radiator cap - but all the while there's coolant to boil the engine shouldn't suffer if it's allowed to cool down before refilling.

Leave the heater on: if it runs cold after the engine has warmed up then there's an air lock in the heater circuit that needs venting out.

Worry about the water pump only if it leaks. Check the fanbelt though.

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Fri 18 May 2012 @ 12:06 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Great - thanks again Phil. Will certainly try!

In the case I can't get to the bottom of it myself, do you know of a mechanic in the Bristol area who's good with CFs?

All the very best.

Aaron
Fri 18 May 2012 @ 12:44 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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MrPaul wrote:
do you know of a mechanic in the Bristol area who's good with CFs?

I don't know but someone else might.

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Fri 18 May 2012 @ 17:25 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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HI Paul, it might be blocked water ways in the head, try back flushing the system. this might unblock any blackages.
Richard & Judith

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Sat 19 May 2012 @ 10:38 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi, I had a similar problem with my 2.3 petrol Ambulance when I bought it last year. Basically the rad was full of rust/foreign objects etc but the main problem was the build up of limescale in the cooling channels. There was sufficient flow through the rad whilst it was idling but put her under load for a couple of minutes and it quickly overheated. A normal backflush etc with a radiator cleaning agent made no impression at all for me. I had to take the rad off and soak it over a week or so period in a dilute citrus based descaling solution. I'd soak it for a day or so, drain it then flush and back flush it then refill it and soak it again. I would see the improvement as days went on by laying the rad on it's side and filling it with hot water after every cleaning cycle and feeling the rad' for the hot areas. The alternative was of course a re-core but I've managed to avoid that for now.
Hope this helps. Simon.

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Sat 19 May 2012 @ 14:34 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Thanks everyone!

The temp gauge stayed up for a good twenty minutes, so I left it there.

I have now removed the rad and flushed out both back and forth. I am taking it to a rad place tomorrow who will hopefully five it a good check over. Failing that it must be the water pump. Fingers crossed I can get to the bottom of it all soon!!

Cheers

A
Sun 20 May 2012 @ 15:09 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Update!!

Rad is fine. Took out the thermostat the other day and thought I had the solution to all my problems!!I tested it in place (the garage said they had replaced it) and even when the engine was really hot - with the top hose off, there was no water returning. I took it out and ran the van for five or ten minutes and the needle went gradually up to just over half way. Ace, I thought - the garage had replaced with a faulty part - happy days.

The next day I took the van for a run (20 minutes odd) and the bloody needle crept back into the red again!!! I have now ordered and received a replacement (recon) water pump and am hoping this HAS to be the solution!! The garage did mention that the pully on the existing water pump has been adapted in some way (extra holes drilled to take the bolts) so thinks the pump may not be the right one!!!

Anything I may have missed??

Thanks loads
Aaron
Fri 25 May 2012 @ 15:04 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Water pump changed and still no solution.

I've run out of ideas now (and money!!!). So far I've done the following:

Changed the Thermostat (three times!)
Removed the radiator and had it checked out
Checked all hoses and belts
Changed Temp Send Unit
Changed Temperature gauge
Done chemical test for Head Gasket
Changed Water Pump

What else could it be???

Aaron (weeping into his steering wheel!)
Mon 28 May 2012 @ 18:45 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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have you actually checked what the temp of the engine is??

if you use a lazer temp unit to pinpoint the temp on various parts of the engine , it can be used to find cold spots on rads as well.

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Mon 28 May 2012 @ 19:01 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Thanks Geth - may see if the garage has one and check it out.

In terms of temperature, the gauge was well into the red, but I still managed to get the cap off the rad and it wasn't boiling at that point. It did then start boiling over after a few more minutes, so I'm not sure what this tells me.

I'm supposed to be taking the wife and kids away this weekend for our inaugural camping trip, but this is looking increasingly unlikely!!
Mon 28 May 2012 @ 19:25 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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OK - so last week I bit the bullet and had the radiator recored and put it back in and the same thing happening.

Local garage (not particularly skilled in these areas me thinks) have suggested its a cracked block and have said I should scrap it!

I am thinking it could be a silted up block perhaps - although the garage did put a flushing compound through. Does anyone know how to diagnose/fix this issue?

As I have said before, I have completely run out of ideas, but don't want to simply walk away. Does anyone know of a CF friendly garage/mechanic in the Bristol area who could help?

Many thanks
Aaron
Tue 05 Jun 2012 @ 10:56 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Which dash is installed?



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Tue 05 Jun 2012 @ 12:49 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi Phil - it's the bottom one.

Thanks

Aaron
Tue 05 Jun 2012 @ 14:25 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi Phil

I have another garage hopefully looking at the van at some point this week for a second opinion, but getting anyone to touch a CF in Bristol with a barge pole seems really tricky. Will report back - any ideas in the meantime?

Many thanks again for all your help.

Aaron
Mon 11 Jun 2012 @ 21:27 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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dont know,but might be worth giving these a call,www.ccrr-restoration.co.uk about 2 mile from bristol airport.

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Mon 11 Jun 2012 @ 21:43 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Thanks loads Graham - will give them a call in the morning. I'm all out of ideas!

Cheers
Aaron
Mon 11 Jun 2012 @ 22:09 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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