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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	i am pretty shocked at how the older rwd drw axles are the exact same as the new rwd drw axles on transits, done my fair share of half shaft removals on my vans in the past more so axle rebuilds but really enjoying reading some one else doing it love this thread and the workmanship gone into this vans rebirth ----------------------
Thu 03 Jun 2010 @ 11:30
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Day 51 Right hand side rear brakes & hub First thing to get a seeing to was the brake cylinder because the pistons didn't move freely: it should be possible to push the pistons through both ways but they're prone to corrosion due to small size (5/8" diameter). Luckily the bore wasn't pitted & cleaned up quickly with a cylinder hone (brake fluid as lubricant) & the seals were ok so all that it needed to make it last a while was a generous dollop of Girling Red rubber grease inside the dust seals fitted inside-out - and excess grease cleaned off when the dust seals were flipped over into place. Bits to refit - The bleed nipple isn't a CF one (they're longer & fatter) & the cylinder is missing its locating dowel that should engage in a corresponding hole in the backplate. Refitting the E-clip is easier if the bracket is in place first (tightening torque for the nut is 30 N-m) & the bleed nipple is fitted - when the E-clip can be levered on using a small screwdriver while the cylinder is held onto the backplate using a screwdriver or similar against the bracket - The clip is best fitted open end facing the bleed nipple; bleed nipple is enough to locate the cylinder because the anchor for the brake shoes is the pivot under the bracket. Handbrake cable was a bit rusty but once the cable was pulled through as far as it would go & cleaned up a dose of Keenol (calcium-base waterproof grease) got it moving freely - Handbrake cable refitted with its spring, contact points on (clean!) backplate lightly greased - Bits cleaned up before refitting brakes & hub - Why the hub locknut was loose - Comes under head of criminal negligence in my book: it's bad enough to use a chisel on a hub nut, but a blunt one needing bigger wallops to drive the nut round ... & if the axle hadn't been looked at then the hub, half shaft, brake drum & wheels could have come off in one lump. Assembling handbrake lever to brake shoe with longer lining (Keenol as lubricant) - The anti-rattle washer that fits between the lever & brake shoe is a thin spring type; the lever has to be clamped against the brake shoe in order to fit the E-clip. Cable attached to handbrake lever - With the top pull-off spring attached to the brake shoe, the spring can be fitted to the backplate lug & then the shoe can be manoeuvred onto the top post - and the steady pin & spring can be fitted once any slack in the handbrake cable is taken up by pulling the cable through from the front end - Expander bar & its flattened spring refitted - then the brake shoe with the shorter lining - Lower pull-off spring - Brake adjuster - fitted - and steady pin & spring - This looks right now: brake linings shorter than their shoes should look like they've been pushed around the shoe in the direction of brake drum rotation when the vehicle is going forwards. Hub & bearings: leaving nothing to chance, the bearings outer rings were driven out of the hub for close inspection. What I found - Distorted oil seal - This normally happens when the seal is forced out of the hub by the bearing rather than the outer track. Careful levering with a small blade inserted behind the seal lip was enough to re-shape the ring so that there's clearance all the way around the back of the seal lip. Once this was done the seal was fitted onto the axle tube to check that the lip gripped all the way round: pass. Both bearings are scrap (one shown) - but the bearings from the other hub are fine - so they were fitted. With the hub cleaned, outer bearing tracks fitted thick side first (I use a brass drift) & the hub cleaned again to remove forrin bodies (bits of brass) the inner bearing had LM grease squeezed into the rollers & roller cage before fitting it, followed by more grease - and then the seal was refitted - Excess grease must be cleaned out of the oil slinger recess (slinger is the ring on the axle tube) and the drain hole cleared out - With more grease pulled into the inner bearing from inside the hub it's ready to fit - Once the hub is slid onto the axle tube the outer bearing, also packed with grease, can be refitted - and it doesn't hurt to wipe more grease over the bearing before fitting the adjusting nut - Using a 2+3/16" socket, the nut is tightened to about 40 Nm while rotating the hub, backed off then tightened again using only hand pressure. New locktab called for - The inner tab locates in the groove on the lower side of the axle tube. Once the locktab is in place the locknut (new one here) can be run up to nip it so that the outer tab that fits best can be bent over over the adjuster nut using a flat chisel blade or similar - With the face of the locknut lightly greased, it can be tightened fully, to 258 N-m - and another tab bent over the locknut - Brake drum refitted - I prefer the drum to be stuck to the hub (rust usually does this anyway) so that drums & hubs can't be mixed up; besides, bashing brake drums off breaks the outer lip (both drums have suffered in this way) & if they don't come off square then the wheel studs can suffer... This one had Loctite Bearing Fit applied & allowed to cure with a couple of wheel nuts run up backwards against the conical washers (3 each stud here) as packing to hold the drum tight. Half shaft refitted using new rectangular section spring lock washers, conical washers refitted to all 6 wheel studs - With not having spare flange gaskets Loctite 598 black RTV silicone was used to seal the half shaft. A tightening torque isn't given for the 8 flange bolts: hand tight with a spanner (hub held using a bar against wheel studs) is enough with new lock washers - over-tightening can strip the threads in the hub. Last thing before the wheels go on: a new cupro-nickel brake pipe, a bit better secured than the old copper one by using insulators - Old pipe - The only lubricant permissible on wheel nuts is a light smear of grease on the conical faces to aid accurate torque tightening - Wheels fitted, with tyre valves on opposite sides - and nuts fitted hand tight - Just the wheel nuts to torque tighten once the van is back on its wheels so that's this side finished for now. And just a serviceable hub to find on the donor, preferably the left side, once I've got the seized-on wheel nuts to move... ----------------------
Thu 03 Jun 2010 @ 21:47
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Fantastic detail and pictures Phil.....you are a true craftsman What a lucky person I am. Incidently that garage changed all those rear wheels Bodger is never far away it would seem. margaret ----------------------
Thu 03 Jun 2010 @ 23:18
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Day 52 Left side rear brakes & hub Much of the day was spent getting the hubs off the donor rear axle - & in the process removing the axle so that the chassis could be left propped up on a couple of wheels at the back end rather than tie up another pair of axle stands - Brakes job just the same as the right hand side, wheel cylinder hone onwards, mirror image - Hub bearings that came with the donor hub were good too but the drum needed a good clean with being rusty - After a session with a 3-inch flap wheel followed by a wheel wire brush - Once the hub was back on all that was left to do was renew the brake pipe - bleed the brakes & reconnect the handbrake cable then, after running the van while still on stands to settle the brakes in a bit, final adjustment at the wheels then adjust the handbrake cable. The rear brakes will need adjusting again after a few miles once the left side linings have bedded in to a different drum, when the handbrake probably will adjust to 3 clicks for fully on rather than 5 clicks at present. ----------------------
Sun 06 Jun 2010 @ 00:14
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Day 53 Valve clearances, cooling system hoses Oily bits - Valve clearances are 0.012" cold & adjustment is by 'valves rocking', i.e. valve overlap when the exhaust valve just closes & the inlet valve just opens. When this occurs on cylinder 1 (front), the clearances for cylinder 4 are adjusted & vice versa; cylinder 2 valves rocking, adjust cylinder 3 valve clearances & vice versa. Needs a 1+1/2" spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt to turn the engine. Adjustment is by a slotted screw that has a locknut on it - The clearance is correct when the feeler gauge is just nipped when the locknut is tightened &, to check, the feeler gauge can be re-inserted without bending after it has been withdrawn. Rocker cover cleaned up with rock hard old cork gasket & a new (expensive...) Perkins gasket - New gasket stuck to rocker cover - The gasket actually was short on the length by a few mm so spray glue was used on the gasket & it was stretched into position once the glue had tack dried. Rocker cover refitted, gasket face lightly smeared with grease - Margrae has been busy with the paintbrush again. The cooling system hose that is the the hardest to get at is the water pump to thermostat housing one (35mm bore, 45mm long) - The front panel & radiator have to be removed for access, followed by the thermostat housing. Old hose (inset above) was rather hard & the top clip screw snapped first turn. Radiator outlet (bottom) hose got replaced by a shortened Opel diesel one - This allowed shortening of the metal pipe between the original elbow hose & the water pump hose down to a connecting stub about 50mm long because one end had corroded through. The dribble in the photo appeared to be the radiator bottom neck cracked again but it turned out to be a knackered hose clip (inset) that got mixed up with the re-usable ones; neck solder repair is sound still. So far a replacement hasn't been found for the water pump hose - or a single hose to replace the top hose - but both old hoses are supple & don't crunch when squeezed like all the others did so should last a bit longer while something is found that will fit. All heater hoses were replaced using ordinary 5/8" bore hose - To achieve the sharper bends at the heater without the hose kinking 15mm copper tube pieces bent to about 90 degree were used - The 180 degree bend for the top heater hose took 2 copper pieces: apart from being hard to shape a tight U-bend in 15mm copper it's difficult enough to push a 90 degree bend into 5/8" hose (but once in it can be pushed further along the hose - Sod's Law I reckon). ----------------------
Mon 07 Jun 2010 @ 01:08
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Day 54 Bits & pieces Transmission oil levels checked; gearbox - rear axle - Filler/level plugs on the TK gearbox & Salisbury axle both have 1/2" square tops although the axle plug is a larger thread diameter. Excess oil in the gearbox wasn't much but the litre or so drained from the axle might cure the weep from the pinion seal... Rear spring U-bolts need re-tightening every B service - Tightening torque is 112 N-m with being the van being a 350 (same also for code 035 140-inch wheelbase models). As with all U-bolt re-tightening the nuts must be slackened first or the tightening torque will be incorrect. Nearly smacked myself in the face with the long bar I use expecting a fight with each nut: none of the nuts were anywhere near tight or even slightly seized. The bulb in the switch used for reverse lights had died so it got replaced - Bulb is a 14V Lilliput ES (Edison screw), a type that I've found cheapest from electronics suppliers. A piece of screenwash tubing pressed over the glass makes replacement easy; the switch top levers off from the sides for access & clicks back on with a push. Finishing touch, reverse & fog switches labelled - Edding transfer rub-down letters with clear tape on top. Steering wheel medallion refitted now the steering wheel is centred and the nut tightened to 105 N-m - A good idea to check that all the lights work after messing with any of the switches - & same at the front. Margrae has replaced the old glass fibre insulation inside the cab engine cover with matting from Woolies - A distinct improvement once the cover was refitted. Last, re-wire the rear view camera because the original cables failed (multi-pin plug badly wired) & Margrae had got a replacement from the seller - Display at 4:3 in this photo; wide angle display option is the same field of view but spread sideways, ok for viewing wide angle movies that the display can handle as AV or PAL but I find it a bit disconcerting on the road & when reversing. Display supply wiring is a temporary fix because I didn't have wiring stuff with me so there's that to add to just the few things left to do before the van heads off home to Scotland. One is to fill the hole in the camper floor left from removing the Carver heater. Got some 18mm birch ply somewhere... The other is to renew the 2 last old cooling system hoses. Problem here is scarcity of original ones (Bedford rather than Perkins parts - can't even find hoses for 4.108 engines & they were the more common when they were fitted to CFs) along with Vulco-flex hoses with greatly different diameters each end and anywhere near the right lengths. However, if I can get 48-32mm & 40-32mm straight reducers (at less than eye-watering prices) then it'll be possible to mate them up with easy to find 32mm hoses with the necessary bends. Working on it. Not quite done yet but ever so close now. ----------------------
Tue 08 Jun 2010 @ 02:12
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	have you thought of mayby ordering performance silicon hoses ? i ordered bespoke hoses for a track car i owned a few years back, kept destroying standard hoses, company i used was http://www.viperperformance.co.uk believe they also done alot of work for mark evans the tv presenter of the "is born" shows ----------------------
Tue 08 Jun 2010 @ 19:23
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Thanks for tip I'll be having a chat with Viper tomorrow. ----------------------
Tue 08 Jun 2010 @ 22:45
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Well.......tried for a few hours to install CD player...failed. The only sound I am going to have is the sound of the engine chugging away !! margaret ----------------------
Tue 22 Jun 2010 @ 01:09
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	re oil leak After arriving home I checked under the bonnet and this is what I found...looks like there has been a little explosion of oil !! Oil looked as if it came from oil filler cap as red pipe sitting against cap ? oil at injector...don't know if this was splashed from elsewhere ? oil leak on ground margaret ----------------------
Wed 23 Jun 2010 @ 00:35
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Maybe you've found the reason: the red breather pipe position was to the left of the filler tube & clear of the cap before I did the valve clearances & the filler cap doesn't fit too well; if the pipe is resting against the cap then crankcase pressure may be venting past the cap & throwing oil mist out. Easy enough to move the pipe by releasing it from the air cleaner & re-routing it. Oil leak is what I'd expect from the crankshaft rear seal knowing that it does weep. Drip tray ... it'll be a long while before the clutch needs renewing, when it'll be a good time to get at the seal carrier on the back of the engine. Might be an idea to remove the cab engine cover in order to have a better look around the engine. ----------------------
Wed 23 Jun 2010 @ 00:53
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Well.........disaster upon disaster 1. Whilst trying to fit cd player managed to fuse courtesy lights !!...bloody little pin on piller that comes out when door opens came out as well....probably blown off !! Need to get some 35amp fuses now as the 2 spares were blown already. 2. Checked the coolant level today and was way low....needed about 4 litres of top-up ! Oil level looks okay, doesn't look like contaminated with water. Here are some pics under vehicle Took engine cover off...looked ok ----------------------
Wed 23 Jun 2010 @ 17:16
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Coolant loss is a new development; system tested ok after the last session replacing old hoses. The sump looks damp too like it's been sprayed with coolant (antifreeze component will hang around for a bit): if there's no obvious leaks from the radiator or at the front of the engine then maybe the water pump is weeping. ----------------------
Wed 23 Jun 2010 @ 19:09
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Hi Phil I think the coolant leak is here ? Not very great pics margaret ----------------------
Thu 24 Jun 2010 @ 16:56
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Aaaargh! Weeping core plug behind the injection pump... ----------------------
Thu 24 Jun 2010 @ 17:19
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	----------------------
Thu 24 Jun 2010 @ 17:37
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Likely suspects - There's a third cylinder block core plug to the rear, near the starter motor, but the drip that Margrae has found seems to be in line with the middle one (to the right in this photo, taken before the van was fit for the road). ----------------------
Thu 24 Jun 2010 @ 18:29
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Here is where the oil leak appears to be ? Coolant leak ----------------------
Fri 25 Jun 2010 @ 09:14
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Some better news since Margrae has wheeled the van into her local garage: coolant leak is a cracked radiator top neck that needs re-soldering & the leak that I thought could be core plug/s is a fuel leak, not coolant, from No 1 injector leak-off banjo. ----------------------
Fri 25 Jun 2010 @ 22:05
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	update Done some internal refurbishment, after stripping paint off some of the wood I thought it looked a bit dark and gloomy..........so out came the paintbrush and painted some colour on doors and cupboards. Bathroom still needs a little work Started painting exterior with Rustoleum ( diluted around 15% with white spirit) Removed decals and I think she looks better without them. Upper part of rear, 2 coats so far...had to tweezer off a few insects !! Lower part of side, 1 coat.... had to work quickly on large area ...no insects this time. margaret ----------------------
Sat 24 Jul 2010 @ 22:18
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