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Anon
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Injection pump leaks & some more bug fixes

Injection pump came off a few weeks back because it sprang a leak from the accelerator spindle -



As the pump came off there was a gush of fuel past the front seal as well.

Pump was serviced by Sewell's in Leeds who also renewed the governor top housing because the resin-bonded fastener inside had broken free; pump went back on a few days later.

Refit was straightforwards with the drive having a master spline & the pump & drive housing having timing marks on them. The hard part was finding that the single flares on the fuel inlet & return pipes wouldn't seal properly so they were cut off & olives were fitted. Then it took a while to re-shape the steel pipes so that they fitted properly so that the tube nuts could be screwed in at all.

Pump refitted -



The adapted 4.108 accelerator cable had started binding, caused by the cable & also the left side headlamps wiring harness being trapped between the radiator & front panel by the clown who took 4 hours to 'repair' the radiator top neck .

Luckily I've managed to free off the seized original accelerator cable by removing all the rust from inside it where the plastic sheathing had been damaged in a previous life. This involved peeling off all the plastic sheathing, soaking the cable in WD40 then working the outer cable in my hands for what seemed forever until the inner cable started moving, then another forever injecting more WD40 in at one end to wash out the rust from the other. A new binding of yellow PVC tape finished it off -



Also in the photo are the new adaptors for replacing the hardened original top & bottom radiator hoses; aforementioned clown said that they wouldn't fit...

Alternator pulley has been replaced by one for a 13mm wide belt, the original one for 9.5mm wide belt being responsible for rapid belt wear due to cutting into the flanks of the belt -



Pulley is Ford origin (it's got a Ford part number on the boss) and although it's larger diameter than before it looks right compared to original Perkins. Belt that's on now is on the short side at 1300mm (adjuster bracket near the end of its slot) but it went on readily enough.

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Tue 07 Sep 2010 @ 21:35 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Radiator hoses last of the old crunchy ones replaced

Top hose at the thermostat housing end has to bend away from the radiator first in order to impart enough flexibility in the hose to damp engine vibration. The answer I came up with -



Lines are where the hoses were trimmed back to. The curved hose is on the small side for inside diameter (about 28mm); ideally it should be 32mm but it shouldn't be too hard to find a 32mm ID hose with a similar bend in it.

Fitted -



Every hose & cable near the radiator hose had to be disconnected & re-routed, some a few times before everything dropped into place without fouling anything else. Took ages but now the top hose can be replaced without having to disturb anything else.

Bottom hose was simply done in comparison -



The Viper adaptor length didn't need trimming; smaller bore is 32mm as for the top hose adaptor.

When the system was filled with water & pressurised it leaked from some connections, fixed by replacing old clips with new, then from the radiator top neck. So out came the radiator to have the ridiculously expensive repair re-soldered -



The patch is part of the previous repair & may be covering over a crack. The leak was around the neck where the solder was 'dry' (tin loss through too much heat applied) & it didn't take much to sort it out.

Another problem: tubes visible through the filler neck were choked -



Makes me think that radiator sealer has been used then left in & when the old top hose leaked the coolant level dropped enough to expose the tops of the tubes to air & the sealer has done what sealer does...

A dose of Wynns Radiator Flush followed by reverse flush of the system has dragged out a lot of crud. Reverse flush is relatively easy using a hosepipe -



Running the engine helps stir up crud that's lurking in the cylinder block. Once what comes out of the radiator runs clear the cap can be refitted in order to flush out the heater matrix -



All back together now & no leaks.

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Wed 08 Sep 2010 @ 21:57 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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PHIL you have certainly had your work cut out its the first time Ive read this thread and its tired me out just reading it! so thats what you have been doing in Leeds, hope its sorted now for your sake and Margarets. I have realy enjoyed reading this and how you get the time to take pictures is beyond me but very good they are as are the explainations of how you tackled the various jobs, you should be up for an O.B.E for work on old bedfords.
Dave

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Fri 10 Sep 2010 @ 01:01 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Would that be : - Order of the Bedford Engineers ?

Nigel.
Fri 10 Sep 2010 @ 07:57 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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That as well!.
Dave

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Fri 10 Sep 2010 @ 08:26 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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This thread is brilliant, very helpful with all the pics with the pointer arrows ! It will get there I'm sure. I suppose all big alterations like this will have teething problems.

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Sun 26 Sep 2010 @ 17:37 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Just awaiting re-cored radiator, decided best to get it done so doesn't cause problems later. Awaiting delivery of some new hoses too.
The oil leak being the last thing to sort out........unless 'beddie' has something else to reveal !!
Due another MOT soon, can't believe how time flys.

margaret

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Mon 27 Sep 2010 @ 18:15 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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A new way of getting a CF to behave

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Wed 29 Sep 2010 @ 22:52 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Engine oil leak

The guilty party: crankshaft rear oil seal. Seal housing assembly as it came off the back of the engine -



Seal is triangular section graphited rope in 2 halves like the slant engine.

Housing on the engine prior to removal -



This involved laying some concrete flags first -



These were essential for supporting the TK gearbox on a trolley jack so that the gearbox could be withdrawn completely from the engine before dropping it down to the ground.

What had to come off in order to get at the seal housing, cleaned up some using a pressure washer (& rained on anyway - only time the rain stopped was when packing up for the day) -



For some perspective, the clutch fork is about the same size as the fork for the 1.8 slant engine. Gearbox is upside-down; top cover has to be removed before unbolting the gearbox from the clutch housing - gear lever turret won't clear the cab floor otherwise.

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Wed 29 Sep 2010 @ 23:13 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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hmm can i borrow that,lol

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Wed 29 Sep 2010 @ 23:15 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Engine oil leak part 2

New oil seal fitted to lower half of the seal housing -



The new seals being white apparently is a materials change due to EU asbestos legislation. Why the seals aren't impregnated with graphite like similar seals on the slant engine seems to be something to do with achieving a good, tight fit in the housing halves; seals certainly are a lot easier to fit right first time without them trying to creep out at the ends (fitted first) while working the middle sections into the grooves.

Ready for fitting to engine (upper half housing similar) -



With having no graphited grease handy & apparently none in Leeds that could be had same day it took a trip to a craft shop for some powdered graphite to mix into a stiff paste with LM grease. Black RTV silicone stable to 200C can be used instead of Loctite 598.

The seal sits over the oil return scroll on the end of the crankshaft -



Once the scroll is cleaned it needs a wipe of engine oil before fitting the housing after sticking the housing to crankcase gasket to the crankcase (Loctite 5977 flange sealer used) -



Once all the bolts are fitted the clamp bolts are tightened to 4-6 lbft before tightening the other 6 bolts to 12 lbft, followed by tightening the clamp bolts to 12 lbft.

A quick check that all is well by turning the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt then the clutch housing can be fitted -



Heavy going due to the weight of the housing & having to tilt the engine for the housing to clear the cab floor but once the housing sits on the 2 locating dowels in the back of the crankcase the 6 3/8-inch UNF bolts can be screwed in, followed by the 4 5/16-inch UNF bolts (2 each side of the engine, from the front) & then the lot can be tightened.

There's a crack in the rear edge of the housing, bottom centre. When I've come across this before (on some TKs & also my first CF when it had a 2.3 slant engine and TK gearbox for a while) the received wisdom was to leave well alone because a welded repair would create stresses leading to cracks elsewhere & once the gearbox is fitted it's the front of the gearbox that takes the strain.

Flywheel preparation: clean out spigot bearing, pack with fresh LM grease then tap home (with the shield facing the clutch side) until it meets the shoulder in the flywheel bore -



Clutch is 8.5-inch - flywheel is massive compared to Vauxhall & Opel engines & weighs about 25kg.

Flywheel fitted -



There's no locating spigot to speak of (a small depression is all that there is in the flywheel) or dowels in the crankshaft so the flywheel had to be manoeuvred into place then supported on a jack while finding the right position so that all the bolts could be fitted - one bolt is offset by 5 degree, others are 60 degree spacing. The manual says fit a couple of 1/2-inch UNF studs to locate the flywheel until some bolts can be fitted; even if I'd had any studs with me there's no way that the flywheel can be manoeuvred into place with studs sticking out because there's so little clearance in the clutch housing. The air was a bit blue for a while...

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Thu 30 Sep 2010 @ 23:47 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Fitting the clutch -







Leaving the clutch cover bolts loose enough to just nip the centre plate also wedges the release bearing & clutch fork in place ready for fitting the gearbox -



Finishing off: starter motor refitted -



cross member & propellor shaft -



exhaust front pipe & clutch cable -



Van back on its wheels, battery reconnected to check that the engine will start & run.

Van can't be driven yet because there's the radiator to refit, hopefully in a few days after the rain has stopped persisting down -



Radiator re-cored by Oldham Radiators: 3-row core along with a new top tank to replace the 'blown' old one.

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Fri 01 Oct 2010 @ 18:34 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Went in for an MOT today.................FAILED, apparently the front brakes are not right, ? uneven braking or summit .....ahmmm more of the readies me thinks !!!


margaret

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Wed 06 Oct 2010 @ 17:17 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Dont worry. You should take such a failure as a compliment! It passed on everything except for a bit of routine adjustment. Ok It will potentially need a new part or two but it is no disaster at all.

Congratulations, it almost passed 1st time

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Wed 06 Oct 2010 @ 22:32 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Cooling system final fixes

This work was done before the MoT test - I've been a bit slow to update the blog.

Bits to make up a new top radiator hose -



Standard 45 degree & 135 degree silicone hose bends worked out the cheapest way to go having already had the (non-standard) reducer made.

After much trial & error to ensure that the hose remains clear of the body when fitted, the final version using 32mm steel tube stubs for the joins -



Fitted -





Despite the cramped location the silicone hoses being very supple makes fitting the hose very easy. Clearance at the bulkhead is 6mm.

Last but not least, system pressure test to twice system working pressure (7lb radiator cap) -



Only one leak - some idiot hadn't tightened one of the hose clips...

System filled with 50% glycol - total capacity now 10 litres with the extra row of tubes in the radiator.

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Sat 09 Oct 2010 @ 00:09 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Following MOT fail on unbalanced front brakes

Needed offside brake cylinder obtained from Adrian Bailey. Fitted and retested......FAILED again, told nearside brake cylinders need replaced, again set obtained from Mr Bailey.
Had to go back to Scotland for work and van left for work to be finished.
Phoned my sis on monday.......no contact from garage, phoned my sis today still no word so she phoned them and they said brakes were not working at all.
Jesus Christ what the bloody hell have they done, those brakes were working very well before it went for its MOT.
I am very, very angry and when I phoned garage the guy was out, well all I can say is he better be back soon cause the longer I have to stew the angrier I become.
This van is going to be the death of me....my partner is nipping my head about it and we end up shouting at each other.....enough is enough.....sod it.
Mr Bodger has won....I can't fight it anymore.

margaret

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Fri 15 Oct 2010 @ 14:15 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Margrae - What a stress for you! Ok, lots of deep breaths, count to 10. There is no complex reason why your brakes will have just stopped. Wait until you get a step by step description of what has happened. It may not be as bad as you think. Make sure you get a total break down of what they have done; don't get fobbed off - write it down if need be and come back and tell us. Don't pay a huge bill for a rubbish job. I'm sure someone here can tell you how much you should have been charged for what has been done. It's really hard when you don't understand what has happened. Get the full facts and I'm sure our gentlemen on here will sort you out.

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Fri 15 Oct 2010 @ 17:02 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi ScoobyDoo

Garage originally thought that the new brake cylinders were faulty....so I suggested they put the old ones back on and see if the brakes worked...hmmm
they couldn't find them and were looking in their rubbish bins for them. He said he was going to contact Mr Bailey and ask advice.
I waited an hour or so and then decided to contact Mr Bailey myself who said there had been some issues with pin sized holes in these new brake cylinders. He did offer to go over to the garage tomorrow and see if he could help.
Contacted Phil and explained problem, Phil then phoned garage, but by then they had it sorted and MOT'd !!.....would appear problem was an air lock for god's sake !!!
To think I nearly killed Ralph over this latest problem
I will now await the cost of this latest bodge....

Summary....
Wednesday 6th Oct Taken for MOT....failed on offside brake cylinder(one)
Thurs 7th Oct Cylinder obtained from Mr Bailey
Saturday 8th Re test failed ......near side brake cylinders (both)
Saturday 8th Cylinders obtained from Mr Bailey
Vehicle to be ready on monday 11th Oct
No contact till my sis phoned today....and the rest of the saga as written previously.

The only person I now trust with my baby is Phil, so I am now officially appointing him as her 'godfather'.... sorry Phil she is (and has) your
blood !! your love child !!

Some will say I have 'lost the place'...but others will know its just laughing at our misfortunes.

Margaret

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Fri 15 Oct 2010 @ 17:53 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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`This has been a wonderful day!' said she, as the CF took to the road again. `Do you know, I`ve never been in a CF before in all my life.'

`What?' cried Phil, open-mouthed: `Never been in a--you never--well I--what have you been doing, then?'

`Is it so nice as all that?' she asked shyly, though she was quite prepared to believe it as she leant back in her seat and surveyed the cushions, the kitchen and all the fascinating fittings, and felt the van sway lightly under her.

`Nice? It's the ONLY thing,' said the Phil solemnly, as he leant forward. `Believe me, my young friend, there is NOTHING--absolute nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in CFs. Simply messing,' he went on dreamily: `messing--about--in--CFs; messing----'

:D

With apologies to Kenneth Grahame.

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Fri 15 Oct 2010 @ 18:35 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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hi Margaret sounds like you've got there at last,hope you have many trouble free and happy journeys,graham.;]

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Fri 15 Oct 2010 @ 18:42 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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